I discovered some Japanese style handle makers out there use a method of construction involving a dowel insert. Essentially the handle and ferrule are drilled out to receive a matching size dowel with a slot cut from the dowel to fit the tang of the blade. I found this method has a few advantages for assembly and makes tang fitting a little easier.
I decided to try it on my Tojiro knives that needed some upgrading.
Knife Specs
Type: Tojiro Shirogami Gyuto
Length: 210 mm
Steel: Shirogami #2 (white #2)
Handle Shape: Octagonal
Handle Material: Claro Walnut, Wild Apple wood
Handle Length: 135 mm
Ferrule: 30 mm
Ferrule End Width: 18 mm
Ferrule End Height: 23 mm
Butt End Width: 21 mm
Butt End Height: 26 mm
Type: Tojiro Shirogami Petty
Length: 150 mm
Steel: Shirogami #2 (white #2)
Handle Shape: Octagonal
Handle Material: Claro Walnut, Wild Apple wood
Handle Length: 120 mm
Ferrule: 28 mm
Ferrule End Width: 15 mm
Ferrule End Height: 18 mm
Butt End Width: 18 mm
Butt End Height: 21 mm
Saya – Knife Covers: Poplar
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Walnut and Apple squared up and ready for drilling.
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To mark the dowels I start by marking the end with the thickness I want. Then I lay it flat along the mouth of my vise and use the jaw as a ruler. Rotating the dowel as required.
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Holes drilled to receive dowel insert. The tang slot in the dowel will be paired down with a chisel to better fit the tang. The ferrule will be rough fitted to the tang before assembly.
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Using two clamps during glue-up allows you to insert the knife tang to ensure the dowel is aligned correctly.
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I find it easier to mark out my chamfers so I know exactly what I'm aiming for. I do this on both ends because grain direction can change and it requires planing from either end.
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I lightly sand with 220 grit to break sharp edges.
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First coat of Tung oil on the gyuto handle.
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First coat of Tung oil on the gyuto handle.
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Six coats of Tung oil applied with cheesecloth. A dry piece of cheesecloth is used to burnish in between coats.
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Dry fitting handles.
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Making a saya without the handle is easier to do when possible. This way you don't have to cut out the notch for the handle first, making it more stable against the stop when chiselling out the waste.
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Marking and cutting out the retaining pin hole is best saved for near the end.
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It is always better to have the blade spine and cutting edge in one solid piece opposed to directly over a glue line.
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Finished Claro Walnut and Wild Apple handles with Poplar saya - knife covers.
